There is one year, I launched the challenge to make my own jacket. I wanted a sport model, short, curved and my favorite color: GREY
How it, you already know that this is my favorite color ??!
So I went antiquing Market St Peter, the Holy Land of the tissue to Paris in search of the Grail. This is where I fell in love with a flannel coupon Vitale Barberis Canonico feet of absolutely sublime chip.
Flannel is a wool that is brushed, so the touch is as soft as possible. The process developed by Vitale Barberis is unique, which is why it is considered the best in the matter (so to speak).
Once the pocket coupon, we had to create the pattern.
So I observed lots of PAP jackets that looked like what I was looking, and I have found one who spoke to me. I turned it from every angle, and I was inspired by what I saw.
This allowed me to draw a pattern adapted to my measurements, and modify it according to my desires.
There is now Tetris: the boss, which is cut from tissue paper, is placed on the piece of fabric. The goal is to put all the pieces in the right direction, and losing the least amount of tissue.
Oh, and history spice up the thing, I opted for the traditional technique of integral stabilizer. The principle is to imprison a tailor fabric (cotton wool which thickens the plastron) between the apparent cloth jacket and facing.
This age-old technique is tedious. But it guarantees fell exceptional garment, unlike heat-bonded jackets, ubiquitous in the PAP.
Here are the canvas tailor trapped inside of the jacket, including fixed by parallel lines of chevron points. Very technical, this is done by hand by printing a rolled all-wool cloth.
With the guidance of my teacher of sewing and advice of Julien Scavini (the blog author Stiff Colar , a reference blog for anyone interested upside of menswear), I managed to brave the trials and to finish my work, after several months of hard.
If you leave nice comments and that you share videos that Chinese juggle kittens singing the Russian anthem, I will show you pictures of my complete and scope jacket.
For that, it will be the second part of this Maxi Best-Of jacket (not fried), especially when I talk about art and how to wear a man’s jacket.
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